LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

-^as^ — 

Shelf 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



fijanbg Volume Cultnarg Seriea. 
No. 2. 



One Hundred Ways of Cooking Fish. 



I 



One Hundred Ways 

of Cooking Fish 



BY 

FILIPPINI. 

(twenty-five years with delmonico.) 




'Ntm Uork: x I 

CHARLES L. WEBSTER & COMPANY. / yT 2 & ^ * 
1892. 



Copyrighted, 1892, 
By CHARLES L. WEBSTER & CO. 

(All rights reserved.) 



PRESS OF 

Jenkins & McCowan, 



NOTES. 



A pinch of salt represents 205 grains, or a tablespoonful. 
Half a pinch of pepper represents 38 grains, or a teaspoonful. 
A third of a pinch of nutmeg represents 13 grains, or half a tea- 
spoonful. 

The recipes referred to in the " One Hundred Ways of Cooking 
Eggs " will be found in the appendix. 



CONTENTS. 



No 



PAGE 

How to Serve Oysters for Private Families 9 

Oysters a l'Alexandre Dumas 10 

How to Serve Clams 11 

To prepare Breaded Fish 12 

Salmon en Papillotes 13 

Salmon, Oyster Sauce 14 

Salmon Colbert 15 

Salmon a la Genoise 16 

Salmon, rolled a lTrlandaise 17 

Broiled Salmon-tail 18 

Boiled Halibut 19 

Halibut Steaks, maitre d'hotel 20 

Trout, Shrimp Sauce 21 

Trout a la Cambaceres 22 

Trout a la Chambord 23 

Boiled Trout, maitre d'hotel 24 

Trout, with fine Herbs 25 

Trout en Papillotes 26 

Sole a l'Hollandaise 27 

Soles Normande 28 

Soles au Gratin 29 

Fried Soles, sauce Colbert 30 

Fillets of Soles, Join ville 31 

Sole, with fine Herbs 32 

Sole Dieppoise 33 

Skate, or Raie au Naturel 34 

Shad, broiled maitre d'hdtel 35 

Shad, with Sorrel 36 

Shad vert-pre 37 

Broiled Fresh Mackerel, maitre d'hotel. . 38 

Mackerel en Papillotes 39 

Fresh Mackerel aux Fines Herbes 40 



No. PAGE 

33. Matelote of Eels.... 41 

34. Matelote of Eels a la Normande 42 

35. Blanched Eels 45 

36. Bluefish a l'lcarienne 44 

37. Bluefish a lTtalienne 45 

38. Bluefish a la Venitienne ... 46 

39. Sheep's-head a la Creole 47 

40. Bouille-a-Baisse, a la Marseillaise 48 

41. Bass a la Bordelaise 49 

42. Bass, with White Wine 50 

43. Bass a la Chambord 51 

44. Salt Cod a la Biscaenne 52 

45. Codfish, bonne femme 53 

46. Fish Balls 54 

47. How to Blanch Codfish-tongues 56 

48. Codfish-tongues au Beurre Noir 57 

49. Fried Cod fish- tongues 58 

50. Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce 59 

51. Broiled Boned Smelts a la Bearnaise 60 

52. Smelts a la Toulouse 61 

53. Stuffed Smelts €2 

54. Smelts au Gratin 63 

55. Lobster a l'Americaine 64 

56. Lobster with Curry 65 

57. Lobster a la Newburg 66 

58. Lobster a la Bordelaise 67 

59. Lobster en Brochette au Petit Sale 68 

60. Lobster en Chevreuse 69 

61. Broiled Lobster a la Ravigote 70 

62. Lobster Croquettes 71 

63. Lobster Cutlets, Victoria 72 

64. Stuffed Lobster 73 



NO. PAGE 

65. Fried Soft-shelled Crabs 74 

66. Broiled Soft-shelled Crabs 75 

67. Hard-shelled Crabs a la Diable 76 

68. Crabs a la St. Jean 77 

69. Crabs a la St. Laurent 78 

70. Crabs a l'Anglaise 79 

71. Fried Oyster-Crabs 80 

72. Clams a la Mariniere 81 

73. Mussels a la Mariniere 82 

74. Mussels a la Poulette 83 

75. Fried Oysters 84 

76. Oysters a la Villeroi 85 

77. Broiled Oysters 86 

78. Oysters a la Poulette 87 

79. Oysters en Brochette au Petit Sale 88 

80. Oysters a la Mali 89 

81. Oyster Patties 90 

82. Stewed Oysters a la Baltimore 91 

83. Soft Clams a la George Merrill 92 

84. Soft Clams a la Newburg 93 

85. Canape Lorenzo 94 

86. Scallops Brestoise 96 

87. Edible Snails a la Bourguignonne 97 

88. Terrapin a la Baltimore 98 

89. Terrapin a la Maryland 99 

90. Broiled Frogs 100 

91. Frogs a la Poulette 101 

92. Fried Frogs 102 

93. Broiled Shad's Roe, with Bacon 103 

94. Broiled Sardines on Toast. 104 

95. Salt Mackerel a la Whitmore 105 

96. Fried White-Bait 106 

97. Oysters Scalloped a la Baltimore 107 

98. Terrapin a la Robert Bonner 108 

99. Terrapin in Chafing-Dish a la Maryland . 110 

100. Oysters a la Pomeroy in 



No. PAGE 
APPENDIX. 

101. Oyster Sauce 113 

102. Sauce Colbert 113 

103. Meat Glaze— Glace de Viande 113 

104. Sauce a la Genoise 113 

105. Anchovy Sauce 114 

106. A Bouquet — how to prepare 114 

107. Butter, maitre d'h6tel 114 

108. Shrimp Sauce 114 

109. Potatoes a l'Anglaise 114 

110. Sauce Espagnole 114 

in. Forcemeat Quenelles of Fish 115 

112. Sauce maitre d'h&tel, liee 115 

113. Cooked Fine Herbs 115 

114. Sauce Allemande 115 

115. Potato Croquettes and Quenelles 116 

116. Croutons for Soups 116 

117. White-Roux 116 

118. Cuisson de Poisson — Fish Broth 116 

119. Sauce Veloute n6 

120. Sauce Chambord 117 

121. Potatoes, Parisienne 117 

122. Sauce Italienne 117 

123. Butter a la Ravigote 117 

124. Lobster Forcemeat 118 

125. Chicken Forcemeat 118 

126. White Broth 118 

127. Sauce Demi-Glace, or Madeira 119 

128. Mirepoix 119 

129. Shrimp Butter 119 

130. Sauce Hollandaise 119 

131. White Stock 120 

132. Bechamel Sauce 120 

133. Bearnaise Sauce 120 

134. Cream Sauce 121 

135. Terrapin — how to prepare it 121 

8 



i. How to Serve Oysters for Private Families. 

Oysters should be kept in a very cold place before they are opened, 
and well washed before using, otherwise their appearance will be de- 
stroyed. They should, according to the French custom, be opened 
on the deep shell, so as to better preserve the liquor, then laid on 
finely chopped ice for a short time — too long destroys their flavor. 
While they should be kept as cold as possible, they should never be 
allowed to freeze, therefore they must only be opened shortly before 
they are needed ; for once frozen, they quickly turn sour. The proper 
way to open them is to place the deep shell in the palm of the left 
hand, and break them on one side. The Boston stabbing knife .is pref- 
erable for this, but if there be none handy use a small block that the 
oyster can fit into, and stab it on the edge ; or even a chopping-block 
and chopping-knife may be employed in case of necessity. Serve six 
oysters for ea«h person, nicely arranged on oyster-plates with quar- 
ters of lemon. 



9 



2. Oysters a l Alexandre Dumas. 

Place in a sauce-bowl a heaped teaspoonful of salt, three-quarters 
of a teaspoonful of very finely crushed white pepper ? one medium- 
sized fine, sound, well-peeled, and very finely chopped shallot, one 
heaped teaspoonful of very finely chopped chives, and half a 
teaspoonful of parsley, also very finely chopped up. Mix lightly to- 
gether, then pour in a light teaspoonful of olive oil, six drops of Ta- 
basco sauce, one saltspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and lastly one 
light gill, or five and a half tablespoonfuls, of good vinegar. Mix it 
thoroughly with a spoon ; send to the table, and with a teaspoon pour 
a little of the^ sauce over each oyster just before eating them. 



10 



3. How to serve Clams. 

Clams should be served on deep plates, covered previously with 
finely chopped ice. To have them sweet and fresh, they should be 
kept as cold as possible. Serve six on each plate with quarters of 
lemon. 



ii 



4- To prepare Breaded Fish. 

1. After the fish is pared, cleaned and dried, dip it first in milk, 
then in flour, and fry in very hot fat. 

2. Take very clean fish, dip it in beaten egg, then in freshly grated 
bread-crumbs, and fry in very hot fat. 

3. For certain fish, like whitebait, immerse them in milk, then in 
flour mixed with pulverized crackers, shake well in a colander, and 
throw into very hot fat. Oysters are breaded the same way, but 
should be flattened before frying. 

4. For croustades of rice or potatoes, dip in beaten egg and roll 
in fresh bread-crumbs ; repeat three times before frying. 



12 



5. Salmon en Papillotes. 

Procure two pounds of very fresh salmon and cut it into six even 
slices. Season these with a good pinch of salt and a pinch of pepper. 
Roll them well. Cut out six heart-shaped pieces of paper, oil them 
nicely, and have twelve thin slices of cooked ham, then proceed to 
prepare them exactly as for mackerel en papillote (No. 31). 



13 



6. Salmon, oyster sauce. 

Place two pounds of very fresh salmon in a fish-kettle, completely 
cover with cold water, season with a handful of salt, add one medium- 
sized, sliced onion, half a wine-glassful of white vinegar, eight whole 
peppers, two cloves, and two parsley-roots. Range the kettle on a 
brisk fire. Five minutes after coming to a boil the salmon will be 
sufficiently cooked. Remove from the kettle, drain it well; dress on 
a hot dish with a folded napkin, nicely decorate with parsley-greens 
all around the salmon, and serve with a pint of hot oyster sauce (No. 
101) separately. 

The necessary time to cook the above to perfection, from begin- 
ning to end, will be thirty-five minutes. 



14 



7- Salmon Colbert. 

Proceed as for No. 6, and serve with three-quarters of a pint of 
Colbert sauce (No. 102), also four plain boiled potatoes served separ- 
ately, and cut in quarters. 



15 



8. Salmon a la Gdnoise. 

To be prepared the same as (No. 7), garnishing with four clusters 
of mushrooms — four mushrooms on each cluster — and six cooked 
crawfish instead of the boiled potatoes. Serve with half a pint of 
Genoise sauce (No. 164) separate. 



g. Salmon, rolled a I 'Irlandatse. 

Bone three pounds of salmon. Parboil it. Besprinkle the sides 
and insides with a pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, and the same 
of nutmeg ; also twelve chopped oysters, one tablespoonful of par- 
sley, and half a cupful of bread-crumbs. Roll it together, then put it 
in a deep pan with one ounce of butter. Bake in a hot oven for 
twenty-five minutes and serve on a dish, pouring its own gravy over. 



17 



io. Broiled Salmon-tail. 

Take three pounds of the tail part of a salmon. Steep it for five 
or six hours in a marinade composed of three tablespoonfuls of olive 
oil in a dish with a quarter of a bunch Of parsley-roots, two bay-leaves, 
and a sprig of thyme. Take out the salmon and broil for ten minutes 
on one side and five minutes on the other (skin side). Dress on a 
hot dish, and serve with two ounces of melted butter, flavored with a 
light teaspoonful of finely chopped chervil, half a teaspoonful of chives, 
and the juice of half a medium-sized, sound lemon. 



iS 



ii. Boiled Halibut. 

Put a piece of halibut weighing two pounds in a saucepan, and 
cover it with fresh water; add one sliced onion, half a sliced carrot, 
and a bouquet (No. 106). Season with a handful of salt and two 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Put on the lid and let cook gently, but no 
more than five minutes after boiling-point; then lift up the fish alone, 
drain well; dress it on a hot dish, and serve with any desired sauce. 



19 



12. Halibut Steaks, maitre a" hotel. 

Wipe well a two-pound piece of fresh halibut, lay it on a dish, and 
season it with a pinch of salt, a pinch of pepper, and two tablespoon- 
fuls of sweet oil. Roll it well and lay it on a double broiler; then 
place it on a brisk fire, and broil for eight minutes on each side. 
Dress the fish on a hot dish, pour a gill of maitre d'hotel sauce (No. 
107) over, decorate with parsley-greens, and serve. 



20 



13. Trout, Shrimp Sauce. 

Clean, wash and dry six fine trout, weighing about a quarter of a 
pound each. Place them on a grate in the fish-kettle, with a pinch of 
salt, adding one sliced carrot, one sprig of thyme, and two bay-leaves. 
Moisten with half a glassful of white wine and half a pint of water. 
Put it on the stove, and let it simmer gently for five minutes after 
boiling-point; then drain and serve on a dish garnished with parsley. 
Send it to the table with half a pint of shrimp sauce (No. 108) in a 
separate bowl, also four plain, boiled potatoes, cut in quarters, a l'An- 
glaise (No. 109). Keep the fish-stock for further use. 



21 



14- Trout a la Cambaceres. 

Cook six trout as for (No. 13); when cooked, then place on a hot 
dish. Put in a saucepan two minced truffles, six mushrooms, also 
minced, and half a pint of Espagnole sauce (No. no), also twelve olives 
and three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce. Let cook for ten minutes, 
then skim off the fat very carefully, and pour the sauce over the trout 
before serving. 



22 



15. Trout a la Chambord. 

Clean, wash, and dry three fine trout of half a pound each. 
Stuff them with fish forcemeat (No. in), and place them in a deep 
baking-dish, buttering it well with about half an ounce of butter. Add 
half a glassful of white wine, a bouquet (No. 106), half a pinch of 
salt, and half a pinch of pepper. Cook for fifteen minutes in the oven, 
being very careful to baste it frequently. Take the juice from under 
the fish, and put it in a saucepan with half a pint of good Espagnole 
sauce (No. 1 ro). Reduce and skim off the fat. Add one truffle and 
four mushrooms, all well-sliced, also twelve blanched oysters. Dress 
the trout on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and decorate the fish 
with six fish quenelles (No. 111). 



23 



1 6. B 7' oiled Trout, maitre d' hotel. 

Procure six fine trout, of a quarter of a pound each; ciean and 
wash well, drain them in a napkin, and make three incisions on each 
side. Place them on a dish with one teaspoonful of oil, a pinch of 
salt, and half a pinch of pepper; roll gently and put them on the 
broiler. Cook for four minutes on each side, then lay them on a dish, 
pour a gill of maitre d' hotel sauce (No. 112) over, and serve with six 
slices of lemon, or with any other sauce desired. 



24 



i J. Trout, with fine Herbs. 

Clean, wash, and dry six fine trout of a quarter of a pound each. 
Put them on a buttered dish, adding half a glassful of white wine and 
one finely chopped shallot. Let cook for ten minutes, then put the 
gravy in a saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of cooked herbs (No. 
113), moistening with half a pint of Allemande sauce (No. 114). Re- 
duce the gravy to one-half, and pour it over the trout with the juice of 
half a sound lemon, and serve. 



25 



1 8. Trout en Papillotes. 

Take six trout, of a quarter of a pound each, and stuff them with 
fish forcemeat (No. in). Oil as many pieces of paper as there are 
fish; put a barde of salt pork on either end of each piece of paper, lay 
a trout on top, add a little salt and pepper, then fold the paper and tie 
it securely with string. Cook in a baking-dish in a rather slow oven 
for about twenty minutes, and serve them in their envelopes, after re- 
moving the strings, with any sauces desired. 



26 



19. Sole a r Hollandaise. 

Skin and bone well three medium-sized soles; put the fillets in a 
stewpan, and cover them with salted water, adding a few drops of vin- 
egar. Cook for about six minutes. Then take them off, drain well, 
and arrange them on a dish. Pour one ounce of melted butter over, 
with the juice of half a lemon; garnish with green parsley, and serve 
with twelve pieces of potatoes a l'Anglaise (No. 109) separate. 



27 



20. Soles Normande. 



Take the fillets from three fine soles, as for No. 19; fold them 
in two, and lay them in a buttered, flat saucepan, with half a glassful 
of white wine, three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, and half a 
pinch each of salt and pepper. Cover and cook for six minutes; then 
lift them up, drain, and arrange them on a dish. Reduce the gravy to 
one-half, add twelve blanched oysters, and six sliced mushrooms, 
moistening with half a pint of Allemande sauce (No. 114). Thicken 
the sauce well with a tablespoonful of good butter, tossing well till 
dissolved, and add the juice of half a lemon. Garnish the sides of the 
dish with the oysters and mushrooms, and pour the sauce over the fish. 
Decorate with three small, cooked crawfish, three fried smelts, and 
three small round croquettes of potatoes (No. 115). 



2S 



2i. Soles an Gratin. 

Proceed as for No. 20. Put three tablespoonfuls of cooked, fine 
herbs (No. 113) in the bottom of a deep baking-dish, fold the fillets 
in two, and place them in, crown-shaped. Season with half a pinch 
each of salt and pepper, then moisten with half a glassful of white 
wine, and bake for five minutes. Take out the dish, decorate it with 
twelve mushroom buttons, adding half a pint of good Espagnole sauce 
(No. no). Sprinkle over with fresh bread-crumbs, pour on a few 
drops of melted butter, and bake once more for three minutes; then 
press the juice of half a lemon over the fillets, add half a pinch of 
chopped parsley, and serve. (All fish au gratin are prepared the same 
way.) 



29 



22. Fried Soles, sauce Colbert. 

Select six small soles, cut off their heads, and make an incision 
down the backbone. Season with one pinch of salt, half a pinch of 
pepper, and the juice of half a lemon; roll in fresh bread-crumbs and 
beaten eggs, then flatten them well, and leave them to drip for a few 
minutes; fry them for three minutes in very hot fat; drain, add an- 
other half a pinch of salt, and arrange them on a dish on a folded 
napkin. Garnish with a quarter of a bunch of fried parsley, and serve 
with half a pint of Colbert sauce (No. 102) separate.. 



30 



23. Fillets of Sole, Joinville. 

Take the fillets of three soles, fold them, and lay them crown- 
shaped in a buttered, flat stewpan, moistening with half a glassful of 
white wine, and three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Season 
with half a pinch each of salt and pepper, and cook on a moderate fire 
for six minutes. Arrange the fillets on a dish, and put it on the side 
of the stove; reduce the gravy to half, adding one cooked lobster 
claw, one truffle, and three mushrooms, all cut julienne-shaped. Add 
half a pint of Allemande sauce (No. 114); stir it well, and pour it over 
the soles before serving, inserting a piece of truffle and a mushroom 
button on each fillet, also in every one stick a picked shrimp, with its 
head erect, if at hand, and then serve. 



31 



24. Sole, with fine Herbs. 

Proceed as for sole Joinville (No. 23), but replace the truffles and 
lobster claw by two tablespoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 113), 
Half a pinch of chopped parsley, and the same of chervil and chives. 
Garnish with six heart-shaped croutons (No. 116), and serve. 



32 



25. Sole Dieppoise. 

Lift the fillets from three medium-sized soles, put them in a but- 
tered stewpan, with one very finely chopped shallot, moistening with 
half a glassful of white wine, and three tablespoonfuls of mushroom 
liquor. Cook for six minutes, then lay them on a dish, reduce the 
gravy to half, adding twelve cooked mussels, six mushroom buttons, 
and half a pint of good Allemande sauce (No. 114). Thicken it well 
with a tablespoonful of butter, tossing till well dissolved, and throw it 
over the fillets with the juice of half a lemon. Serve with six crou- 
tons of fried bread (No. 116) around the dish. 



33 



26. Skate, or Raze au Nature I. 
Pare and cut off the fins from half a skate weighing four pounds 
the half; divide it into six square pieces, wash them well, being very- 
careful to scrape it with a sharp knife, so as to remove the mucus ad- 
hering to it. Put the pieces into a saucepan in which are already 
placed one sliced carrot, one onion, half a bunch of parsley-roots, one 
sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, half a handful of whole peppers, plenty 
of salt— at least a handful — and half a cupful of vinegar. Cover it 
well with water, boil on a moderate fire for forty-five minutes, then 
take it off and lift up the pieces of skate with a skimmer; lay them on 
a table, and remove the skin from both sides; place them on a deep 
dish, and strain the stock slowly over, and use, whenever needed, with 
any kind of sauce desired. 



34 



27. Shad, broiled maitre d hotel. 

Pare and cut a small shad in two, scale it and remove the back- 
bone; lay it on a dish, sprinkling it over with a pinch of salt, and 
baste with one tablespoonful of oil. Leave it for a few moments, then 
broil it on a slow fire in a double broiler for about fifteen minutes on 
the flesh side, and for one minute on the skin side, leaving the roe in 
the inside. Put it on a hot dish, spread a gill of good maitre d'hotel 
sauce (No. 112) over, and serve with six slices of lemon. 



35 



28. Shady with Sorrel. 

Select a small, fine shad, pare and scale it, then let it steep as long 
as possible in a marinade composed of one tablespoonful of oil, half a 
sliced lemon, a quarter of a bunch of parsley-roots, and half a sliced 
onion. When ready, place it in a buttered stewpan, with half a glass- 
ful of white wine, three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, also a 
good bouquet (No. 106). Take two handfuls of picked and washed 
sorrel, mince it very fine, then put it in the stewpan with the fish, add- 
ing a good pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper; cover it, and let it 
cook as long as possible on a slow fire — at least two hours; then 
arrange the shad on a dish. Add one tablespoonful of white roux 
(No. 117), to the juice, thicken well, and pour the sauce over the fish 
when serving, with some more of its own gravy in a sauce-bowl. 



36 



29. Shad vert-prd. 

Pare and scale a small, fine shad, put it on a deep baking-dish, 
well-buttered, and season with one pinch of salt and half a pinch of 
pepper, adding two finely chopped shallots and half a glassful of white 
wine. Cover with a piece of buttered paper, and cook in a moderate 
oven for twenty-five minutes. When done, put the juice in a sauce- 
pan, with half a pint of Allemande sauce (No. 114), a pinch of finely 
chopped chervil, and a little spinach green (Breton essence, a salt- 
spoonful). Let cook again for three minutes, then pour a little of it, 
through a Chinese strainer, on the fish, and serve the rest in a sepa- 
rate sauce-bowl. 



37 



30. Broiled Fresh Mackerel, maitre cThdtel. 

Pare and split two good-sized, fresh mackerel through the back, 
remove the spine, score them slightly, and rub them with one table- 
spoonful of sweet oil ; season with a pinch of salt and half a pinch of 
pepper, then broil them on a brisk fire for ten minutes on the split 
side, and one minute on the skin side. Lay them on a dish, pour a 
gill of maitre d' hotel butter (No. 107) over, and serve with a few pars- 
ley greens and six slices of lemon. 

Broiled Spanish-mackerel are prepared in the same way. 



38 



3i. Mackerel en Papillotes. 

Oil three sheets of white paper a little larger than the length of the 
fish. Cut six thin slices of cooked, lean ham; lay one slice on each 
piece of paper, and on top a tablespoonful of cooked fine herbs (No. 
113). Select three mackerel; make four or five incisions on each side; 
season with a good pinch of salt and a pinch of pepper, divided evenly 
on both sides of the fish, then roll them lightly, and lay the mackerel 
on top of the fine herbs; spread a tablespoonful more herbs over each 
mackerel, and cover with a slice of ham. Then lift up the other side 
of the paper and twist the edges together with the fingers, or a simpler 
way is to fold them the same as trout (No. 18). When ready, put 
them in a baking-sheet, place them in a moderate oven, and let them 
bake for fifteen minutes. Have a hot dish ready, and after taking 
them from the oven, use a cake-turner to lift the fish up gently, and 
dress them on the dish, leaving the paper undisturbed; then serve. 



39 



3 2 . Fresh Mackerel aux Fines Herbes. 

Choose two fine, fresh mackerel, make six small incisions on both 
sides, and place them in a buttered baking-dish, with half a glassful 
of white wine, three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, a finely chop- 
ped shallot, and half a pinch of salt, with the third of a pinch of pep- 
per. Cover with a piece of buttered paper, and bake in a moderate 
oven for fifteen minutes, then place the fish on a dish. Pour the 
gravy into a stewpan, adding two tablespoonfuls of cooked fine herbs 
(No. 1 13), a pint of Allemande sauce (No. 114), and a pinch of chopped 
parsley. Thicken well with a tablespoonful of butter; stir well until 
dissolved, and pour it over the mackerel when serving. (All mackerel 
can be prepared the same way, only adding different sauces to the 
gravy.) 

40 



33- Matelote of Eels. 

Pare and then cut one and a half pounds of eels into pieces two 
inches in length. When well washed, put them in a stewpan with one 
tablespoonful of butter; fry them for two minutes; add a glassful of 
red wine, a third of a pinch of nutmeg, half a pinch of salt, and a third 
of a pinch of pepper, also a bouquet (No. 106), a glassful of fish-stock 
(No. 118), and three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Add six 
small, glazed onions, and six mushroom buttons. Cook for thirty 
minutes, then put in a tablespoonful of white roux (No. 117); stir well 
while cooking five minutes longer, and serve with six heart-shaped 
croutons (No. 116). 



41 



34- Matelote of Eels a la Normande. 

Cut one and a half pounds of eels into pieces, put them in a sauce- 
pan with a tablespoonful of butter; fry two minutes; add a glassful 
of white wine, and three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Season 
well with half a pinch each of salt and pepper, and a third of a pinch 
of nutmeg. Cook for ten minutes, then add half a pint of good vel- 
oute (No. 119), six mushrooms, twelve blanched oysters, six fish 
quenelles (No. 111), and six small, cooked crawfish tails. Cook again 
for five minutes, and when ready to serve, beat in three egg yolks, 
but do not boil again, and garnish with six fried croutons (No. 116). 



42 



35- Blanched Eels. 

Select a pound and a half of well-skinned eels, cut them into 
pieces and tie them in rings; put them with cold water in a saucepan, 
with a good pinch of salt and a little vinegar, a sprig of thyme, two 
bay-leaves, twelve whole peppers, a quarter of a bunch of parsley- 
roots, one onion, and one carrot. Place them on a slow fire, and take 
them off before they boil; lay them in an earthen jar with the water 
they were boiled in. (These can be used for frying or boiling, accord- 
ing to need.) 



43 



36. Bluefish a F Icarienne. 

Scale and score two pounds of bluefish, place it on a well-buttered 
baking-dish, moistening with three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor 
and half a glassful of white wine. Season with half a pinch of salt 
and a third of a pinch of pepper, then cover with a buttered paper, 
and put to cook in a moderately heated oven for fifteen minutes; lift 
it out, lay it on a dish, and put the gravy into a stewpan, adding three 
tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and half an ounce of finely minced, 
cooked, smoked beef-tongue. Boil for two minutes again, and throw 
the whole over the fish when serving. Garnish with six small, cooked 
crawfish, if any on hand. 



44 



37- Blue fish a PItalienne. 

Score and scale two pounds of bluefish; place it in a buttered pan, 
with half a glassful of white wine, three tablespoonfuls of mushroom 
liquor, half of a very finely chopped onion, and six chopped-up mush- 
rooms. Season with a pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper. Cover 
the fish with a buttered paper, and cook in a moderate oven for fifteen 
minutes; take the fish out, lay it on a serving dish, and put the juice 
in a stewpan, adding a gill of Espagnole sauce (No. no), with a small 
glassful of white wine; reduce for two minutes, then pour it over the 
fish, with one pinch of finely chopped parsley, and serve with six 
heart-shaped pieces of crouton (No. 116). 



45 



38. Blue fish a la Venitienne. 

Prepare the fish as for No. 37, adding to it one tomato cut in pieces, 
half a pint of Espagnole sauce (No. 110) and six whole mushrooms. 
Besprinkle lightly with fresh bread-crumbs, and throw over all a few 
drops of clarified butter; put it in the oven for eight minutes, and 
serve with half a pinch of chopped parsley. 



46 



39- Sheep' s-head a la Crdole. 

Put one chopped onion and one very finely chopped green pepper 
— the seed extracted — in a stewpan; brown them in a half gill of oil 
for five minutes, then add one tomato, cut in pieces, four sliced mush- 
rooms, a good bouquet (No. 106), and a clove of garlic. Season well 
with a pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper, then moisten with half 
a pint of Espagnole sauce (No. no). Cut a fish weighing three 
pounds in six slices, lay them flat in the stewpan, with three table- 
spoonfuls of mushroom liquor (if any handy), and let cook for one 
hour on a very slow fire. When ready to serve, sprinkle over with a 
pinch of chopped parsley, and decorate with six pieces of heart-shaped 
crouton (No. 116). (All fish a la Creole are prepared the same way, 
the time allowed for cooking depending on the firmness of the fish. 
The fish can be left whole instead of dividing in slices, if desired.) 



47 



4-0. B ouille-a-Baisse, a la Marseillaise. 

Brown two sliced onions in a gill of oil for five minutes in a sauce- 
pan, then moisten with one quart of fish-stock (No. 118), adding a 
bouquet (No. 106), three cloves of garlic, bruised and minced ex- 
ceedingly fine. Dilute a third of a pinch of powdered Spanish saffron 
in water, and add it to the gravy. Take one small eel, one very small 
bass, the same of sole, one raw lobster — in fact, all the firm fish ready 
at hand — cut them in slices, season with a pinch of salt and the third 
of a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, and put them all together on a 
slow fire. Let cook for twenty minutes, and when ready, serve in a 
deep dish, on which you previously arrange six pieces of toast from a 
French loaf of bread. 

N. B. — The above should be served exceedingly hot. 



43 



41. Bass a la Bordelaise. 

Cut a deep incision down the back of a three-pound sea-bass, put 
it in a baking-dish with half a glassful of red wine, half a pinch of 
salt, and a third of a pinch of pepper. Besprinkle with a finely chop- 
ped shallot, cover with a buttered paper, and cook in a moderate oven 
for fifteen minutes. Lay the bass on a dish, put the juice in a sauce- 
pan with a gill of good Espagnole (No. no), four finely shred mush- 
rooms, and a thin slice of finely chopped garlic; finish cooking for 
five minutes more, then pour it over the fish. Decorate with six 
cooked crawfish or shrimps, and serve very hot. 



49 



42. Bass, with White Wine. 

Lay a three-pound, well-cleaned bass on a well-buttered baking- 
dish; season with half a pinch of salt and a third of a pinch of pepper; 
moisten with half a glassful of white wine and three tablespoonfuls of 
mushroom liquor. Cover with a heavy piece of buttered paper, and 
cook in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes, then lay the fish on a 
dish; put the juice in a saucepan, with half a pint of good Allemande 
(No. 114), thicken well with a tablespoonful of butter till well dis- 
solved, and throw it over the bass, serving with the six heart-shaped 
croutons (No. 116). 



50 



43- Bass a la Chambord. 

Lift the middle skin from the back of a three-pound bass, leaving 
the head and tail covered; lard the fish nicely with a very small lard- 
ing needle, and then lay it on a buttered, deep baking-pan, adding to 
it half a glassful of white wine, and half a carrot, and half an onion, 
both sliced, also a bouquet (No. 106). Season with a pinch of salt 
and half a pinch of pepper, then cover with a buttered paper; cook 
it in the oven for thirty minutes, being very careful to baste it fre- 
quently, then lift out the fish and lay it on a dish. Strain the gravy 
into a saucepan, with half a pint of Chambord garnishing (No. 120), 
moistened with half a pint of Espagnole (No. no); reduce for five 
minutes. Decorate the dish with clusters of the garnishing, and three 
decorated fish quenelles (No. in) to separate them, also three small 
cooked crawfish, and serve. 



51 



m 
] 

44. Salt Cod a la Biscaenne. 

Take two pounds of boneless cod, and soak it in plenty of cold 
water for twenty-four hours, changing the water as often as possible. 
Place it in a saucepan with plenty of fresh water, then let simmer on 
a slow fire till boiling; take it off, and drain it well; return it to the 
pan with fresh water, and let come to a boil again, then scale it by 
separating the bones. Fry together in a saucepan two chopped onions 
and one green pepper in a gill of oil. Let cook for five minutes, then 
add one good-sized tomato, cut in pieces, one clove of bruised garlic, 
and one Chili pepper. Moisten the fish with three pints of broth, add 
a bouquet (No. 106), three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and a pint 
of Parisian potatoes (No. 121). Let cook for forty-five minutes, then 
add the codfish; boil again for five minutes more. Dress it on a hot 
dish, and serve with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley sprinkled over. 



52 



45- Codfish, bonne femme. 

Have two pounds of cooked, soaked, boneless cod; prepare it the 
same as for No. 44, then put it in a saucepan, moistening with half a 
pint of bechamel (No. 132), and half a pint of Allemande (No. 114). 
Add three sliced potatoes, and three hard-boiled eggs, cut in thin slices, 
and half a pinch of pepper. (If too thick, put in a little milk.) Cook 
for about five minutes longer, then serve with a teaspoonful of chopped 
parsley. 



53 



46. Fish Balls. 

Place in a large pan, with plenty of fresh water, three pounds of 
boneless codfish, and let soak for twelve hours. Drain, and place it 
in a saucepan on the hot range, with plenty of cold water, and as soon 
as it begins to boil, drain all the water through a colander. Carefully 
pick out all the bones from the cod, and return it to the saucepan, 
adding five medium-sized, well-washed, and peeled sliced potatoes, 
one gill of cold water or broth, and cook on a moderate fire for 
twenty minutes, then add half an ounce of butter. Take from off the 
fire. Season with one pinch of white pepper, then, with the aid of a 



54 



potato-masher or a pounder, mash all well together right in the pan. 
Transfer it to a dish, and let cool. Make up small fish balls two 
inches in diameter by one inch thick, lightly sprinkle them with a 
very little flour. Heat in a frying-pan one gill of clarified butter; 
when very hot, put in the fish balls and fry for three minutes on each 
side, so as to have them of a good brown color. Gently lift them 
from the pan with a skimmer, dress on a hot dish with a folded nap- 
kin, crown- shaped, one overlapping another. Decorate the centre of 
the dish with parsley-greens, and serve. 



55 



47- How to Blanch Codfish-tongues. 

Procure eighteen fine, fresh codfish tongues, wash them thorough- 
ly in cold water, then drain, and place them in a saucepan on the hot 
stove; cover with fresh water, and season with a handful of salt, six 
cloves, twelve whole peppers, one sliced onion, a bouquet (No. 106), 
and half a sliced lemon. Let them come to aboil, then transfer them 
with the water and garnishings to a stone jar, and use when needed. 



56 



48. Codfish-tongues au Beurre Noir. 

Take eighteen blanched codfish-tongues, as for No. 47, heat them 
in a saucepan with half a gill of their own juice, but do not let them 
boil; drain well, then dress them on a hot dish; pour a pint of drawn 
butter over, and decorate each side of the dish with a few sprigs of 
parsley, then send to the table. 



57 



49- Fried Codfish-tongues. 

Take eighteen fine, fresh codfish-tongues, wash them well, drain 
them in a napkin, dip them in cold milk, and roll them, one by one, 
in flour. Put one gill of clarified butter in the frying-pan, heat it 
well, then gently lay in the tongues separately, and let cook for three 
minutes. Turn them on the other side, using a fork, and cook for 
three minutes more. Lift them up carefully with a skimmer, and 
put them on a cloth to drain. Season with one pinch of salt and half 
a pinch of pepper; dress them on a hot dish with a folded napkin, 
and decorate with sprigs of parsley. Serve a gill of hot tomato sauce 
in a separate bowl. 



58 



50. Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce. 

Cover a three-pound fresh codfish with well-salted fish-stock (No. 
1 1 8), and let cook thirty minutes without boiling; then take it out and 
drain it well. Lay it on a dish, and garnish with a few branches of 
parsley-greens, and twelve pieces of potato a l'Anglaise (No. 109). 
Serve with three-quarters of a pint of oyster sauce (No. 101) sepa- 
rately. (All codfish with different sauces are prepared the same way.) 



59 



51. Broiled Boned Smelts, a la Btamaise. 

Split twelve good-sized or eighteen medium-sized smelts up the 
back, remove the backbone, rub them with one tablespoonful of oil, 
and season with half a pinch of salt and a third of a pinch of pepper. 
Broil them in a double broiler for two minutes on each side; pour a 
little more than a gill of good Bearnaise sauce (No. 133) on a dish, 
arrange the smelts carefully on top, and serve, finishing with a very 
little cream sauce (No. 134) around the dish. 



60 



52. Smelts a la Toulouse. 

Take twelve large or eighteen medium-sized smelts, bone them as 
for No. 51, and then close them up again. Put them in a stewpan, 
with half a glassful of white wine and three tablespoonfuls of mush- 
room liquor; season with half a pinch of salt and the third of a pinch 
of pepper, and cook on a moderate fire for six minutes. Arrange the 
smelts on a dish, add to the sauce twelve mushroom buttons, two 
sliced truffles, six fish quenelles (No. in), and moisten with half a 
pint of Allemande sauce (No. 114). Thicken with a tablespoonful of 
butter sufficiently, and throw the sauce over the smelts. Neatly dress 
the garnishing around the dish, and serve with six heart-shaped crou- 
tons (No. 116). (Smelts are all prepared the same way, only adding 
different garnishings.) 



61 



53- Stuffed Smelts. 

Cut off the fins, wash and dry well with a towel, eighteen fine, 
fresh, medium-sized, Long Island smelts; remove the eggs without 
splitting the stomachs open, then fill them with a fish force-meat (No. 
in), using a paper cornet for the purpose. Lay the smelts on a well- 
buttered silver baking-dish (if possible), and cover them with a pint of 
sauce Italienne (No. 122). Put them in a hot oven and let bake for 
eight minutes; remove them, squeeze the juice of a good lemon over, 
and lay the silver dish on top of another to avoid soiling the table- 
cloth; then serve. 



62 



54- Smelts cm Gratin. 

Clean eighteen smelts, wipe them very dry, and put them on a 
baking-dish with two tablespoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 113), 
half a glassful of white wine, half a pinch of salt, and a third of a 
pinch of pepper. Cover with six whole mushrooms and half a pint of 
Espagnole sauce (No. no). Besprinkle lightly with fresh bread- 
crumbs and six drops of melted butter; place it in a hot oven for ten 
minutes, and serve with the juice of half a lemon, also a teaspoonful 
of chopped parsley sprinkled over. (The smelts can be boned if so 
desired.) 



f >3 



55- Lobster a I Arndricaine. 

Split two fine, good-sized, freshly boiled lobsters; remove all the 
meat carefully, then cut it up into pieces one inch in length. Have a 
pan on the hot range with half a gill of good olive oil, and when the 
oil is very hot add the pieces of lobster. Chop very fine one medium- 
sized, peeled onion, one fine, sound, green pepper, and half a clove of 
peeled, very sound garlic; add all to the lobster, and let cook for five 
minutes, gently mixing meanwhile. Season with a pinch of salt and 
half a saltspoonful of red pepper, adding half a wine-glassful of good 
white wine. Reduce for two minutes, then add one gill of tomato 
sauce and one medium-sized, sound, red, peeled tomato, cut into 
small dice-shaped pieces. Cook for ten minutes longer, gently shuffling 
meanwhile. Pour the whole into a very hot, deep dish, or in a hot 
tureen, and serve. 



64 



56. Lobster with Curry. 

Pick out all the meat from two good-sized, fine, freshly boiled, and 
split lobsters. Cut the meat up in one-inch-length equal pieces. 
Have a saucepan on the hot range with an ounce of very good butter; 
add the lobster to it, and let cook for five minutes. Season with one 
pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper. Place in a bowl one table- 
spoonful of Indian curry, with half a wine-glassful of good white wine, 
mix well together, then pour it into the lobster. Cook for two min- 
utes. Add two gills of hot Allemande sauce (No. 114), shuffle briskly 
for one minute longer. Make a border of fresh-boiled rice all around 
the hot dish; dress the lobster right in the centre of the dish, and serve 
hot. 



65 



57- Lobster a la New burg. 

Split two good-sized, fine, freshly boiled lobsters. Pick all the 
meat out from the shells, then cut it into one-inch-length equal pieces. 
Place it in a saucepan on the hot range with one ounce of very good, 
fresh butter. Season with one pinch of salt and half a saltspoonful 
of red pepper, adding two medium-sized, sound truffles cut into small 
dice-shaped pieces. Cook for five minutes; then add a wine-glassful 
of good Madeira wine. Reduce to one-half, which will take three 
minutes. Have three egg yolks in a bowl with half a pint of sweet 
cream, beat well together, and add it to the lobster. Gently shuffle 
for two minutes longer, or until it thickens well. Pour it into a hot 
tureen, and serve hot. 



66 



58. Lobster a la Bordelaise. 

Add to one glassful of red wine in a stewpan one chopped shallot, 
and half of a smalf carrot cut into exceedingly small pieces. Boil for 
five minutes, and then put in pieces of boiled lobster, the same quan- 
tity as for the above — about a pound and a half — a pinch of salt, a 
third of a pinch of pepper and a very little nutmeg, also half a pint of 
veloute (No. 119). Stew well together for five minutes, and then 
serve. 



67 



59« Lobster en Brochette au Petit Sale". 

Take one and a half pounds of fresh, shelled, boiled lobster, cut 
it into two-inch-square, even pieces, lay them in a bowl, then season 
with a good pinch of salt, a pinch of pepper, the third of a pinch of 
nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of Parisian sauce, and mix all well to- 
gether. Have six silver skewers, arrange in the centre of one a piece 
of lobster, then a mushroom, another piece of lobster and another 
mushroom; continue the same for the other skewers, then place them 
on the broiler and broil for eight minutes, turning them over carefully 
once in a while. Remove them from the broiler, dress them on a hot 
dish, pour a gill of maitre d'hotel butter (No. 107) over, decorate with 
six slices of broiled bacon, and serve very hot. 



68* 



6o. Lobster en Chevreuse. 



To two finely chopped shallots in a stewpan add one glassful of Ma- 
deira wine, one ounce of butter, and a pound and, a half of pieces of 
boiled lobster; moisten with one pint of veloute (No. 119), and season 
with a pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, and a very little nutmeg. 
Let boil for ten minutes, and with this preparation fill six table shells, 
or, better still, six small St. Jacques-shells; on top of each lay three 
slices of truffle and one tablespoonful of good bechamel (No. 132). 
Put one drop of clarified butter over each, and place them in the oven 
for five minutes. Serve very hot on a folded napkin. 



69 



6i. Broiled Lobster a la Ravigote. 

Cut three small, raw lobsters into two equal parts, taking out 
the gravel from the head, season with one pinch of salt and half a 
pinch of pepper, and rub with a very little oil, then broil the pieces for 
ten minutes. Take them from the fire, and remove the meat from the 
head of the lobsters and put it in a salad-bowl with half a pint of rav- 
igote butter (No. 123), and mix well together; take the meat from the 
balance of the lobster, dip it in the sauce, and return it to its shell; 
warm again for two minutes in the oven, then serve on a folded nap- 
kin, garnishing the shells with parsley-greens, and serving the sauce 
in a sauce-bowl. 



70 



62. Lobster Croquettes. 

Make some lobster forcemeat (No. 124); form it into the shape of 
six pears with the hand, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry in very 
hot fat for three minutes; drain well, then serve on a folded napkin, 
garnishing with parsley-greens, and add any sauce required in a 
sauce-bowl. 

Salmon croquettes to be prepared the same way, substituting 
minced boiled salmon for the lobster forcemeat. 



71 



63. Lobster Cutlets, Victoria. 

The same as for No. 62, only giving them the shape of a chop, 
and when serving stick a lobster leg in the point of each one. 



72 



64. Stuffed Lobster. 

Fill six empty lobster-tails with forcemeat (No. 124), roll them in 
bread-crumbs, put them on a baking-dish, smoothing the surface with 
the blade of a knife; place them in a baking-pan. Pour a little clar- 
ified butter over, and brown gently in the oven for six minutes, and 
serve on a folded napkin with a garnishing of parsley-greens. 



73 



65. Fried Soft-shelled Crabs. 

Procure six good-sized, live, soft-shelled crabs, cleanse and wash 
them thoroughly, and dip each one in flour, then in beaten egg, and 
finally in rasped bread-crumbs or pulverized crackers, using them 
very lightly. Fry in very hot fat for five minutes, drain, season with 
one pinch of salt, evenly divided, and serve on a hot dish with a folded 
napkin with fried parsley around. 



74 



66. Broiled Soft-shelled Crabs. 

Have six good-sized, fresh, soft-shelled crabs, cleanse and wash 
them well, then drain them, oil them slightly, and season with a pinch 
of salt and half a pinch of pepper. Put them on the broiler, and broil 
for five minutes on each side. Have six pieces of toast ready, lay a 
crab on top of each, slightly glaze them with a little maitre d'hotel 
butter (No. 107), and serve. This makes a delicious dish, but must 
be served very hot. 



75 



6 j. Hard-shelled Crabs a la Diable. 

Fill six thoroughly cleaned crab-shells with some crab forcemeat, 
which is made same way as lobster forcemeat, only using twelve crabs 
instead of lobster, flatten them with the hand, besprinkle with fresh 
bread-crumbs, smooth the surface with the blade of a knife, moisten- 
ing the top with a very little clarified butter. Place them on a baking- 
pan, and bake a little brown for six minutes. Serve on a hot dish 
with a folded napkin decorated with parsley-greens. 



76 



68. Crabs a la St. Jean. 

Add double the quantity of onions to some crab forcemeat, also 
garlic, parsley, and chervil (let the crabs be in as large pieces as pos- 
sible). Then, as for No. 60, fill six St. Jacques-shells, besprinkle 
with fresh bread-crumbs, smooth the surface with the blade of a knife, 
moisten slightly with clarified butter, and bake in a brisk oven for six 
minutes. Serve on a hot dish with a folded napkin, decorated with 
parsley-greens. 



77 



6g. Crabs a la St. Laurent. 

Reduce half a pint of good veloute (No. 119) with half a glassful 
of white wine, season with one pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, 
and a very little cayenne pepper, adding three tablespoonfuls of grated 
Parmesan cheese. Take three-quarters of a pound of shelled crabs, 
put them in the saucepan, and boil them for ten minutes; then lift 
from the fire and let cool. Prepare six squares of toasted bread, and 
with a knife spread some of the mixture smoothly over each slice, 
sprinkle well with grated cheese, and moisten slightly with clarified 
butter; place them on a baking-dish; bake in a very hot oven for 
three minutes, and serve on a hot dish with a folded napkin, garnished 
with parsley-greens. 



73 



jo. Crabs a 1 1 Anglazse. 

Pick twelve boiled, hard-shelled crabs in as large pieces as possi- 
ble; mix them in a salad-bowl with half a cupful of the white of cel- 
ery or finely shred lettuce leaves, one pinch of salt, half a pinch of 
pepper, one tablespoonful of olive oil, and one and a half tablespoon- 
fuls of vinegar. Refill six well-cleaned shells with the salad, and on 
each one lay a good teaspoonful of mayonnaise sauce, sprinkled over 
with one hard-boiled, finely chopped egg, the yolk and white separ- 
ated, some crab or lobster coral, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 
every article to be used separately, so they have each a different color. 
Serve on a dish with a folded napkin. 



79 



71. Fried Oyster-Crabs. 

Wash well, and dry one and a half pints of oyster-crabs, dip them 
in flour, then in cold milk, and finally in cracker-dust; shake them 
well in a colander, and fry in hot fat for three minutes; serve in shells 
made of foundation paste, or short paste for tarts, garnish with parsley- 
leaves, and sprinkling a very little salt on top. 



80 



72. Clams a la Mar inhere. 

Open and remove thirty-six small clams from their shells; put them 
in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, one pinch of chives, and 
one pinch of finely chopped chervil; add half a cupful of water, so 
they will not be too salty, with half a pinch of pepper, and two table- 
spoonfuls of fresh bread-crumbs. Boil for two minutes, and serve 
with the juice of half a lemon. 



Si 



73- Mussels a la Mariniere. 

Steam in a stewpan thirty-six mussels for ten minutes, and proceed 
for No. 72, leaving a mussel in each half shell. 



82 



74- Mussels a la Pom let te. 

Steam in a stewpan thirty-six mussels for ten minutes, and proceed 
the same as oysters a la poulette (No. 78), leaving a mussel in each 
half shell. 



83 



75- Fried Oysters. 

Procure twenty-four large freshly opened oysters, or thirty-six of 
medium size, dip each one separately in flour, then in beaten egg, and 
lastly in powdered cracker-dust. Fry in very hot fat for four minutes, 
drain well, and serve on a hot dish with a folded napkin, sprinkling 
over a very little salt, and garnishing with fried parsley-leaves. 



84 



76. Oysters a la Villeroi. 

Blanch twenty-four large oysters in their own juice for two minutes, 
then drain them; take some chicken forcemeat (No. 125), spread it 
over both sides of the oysters, dip in egg and fresh bread-crumbs, 
then fry in hot lard for three minutes, and serve with fried parsley. 



85 



77- Broiled Oysters. 

Dip twenty-four large and freshly opened oysters in half bread- 
crumbs and half cracker-dust; flatten them with the hand, and broil 
them on a well-greased broiler for two minutes on each side, then salt 
them slightly, and serve on six pieces of toast; lightly glaze them with 
maitre d'hotel sauce on top (No. 112). 



86 



78. Oysters a la Poulette. 

Put thirty-six freshly opened oysters in a saucepan with a little of 
their own juice, one ounce of butter, half a pinch of salt, and the 
same of pepper; parboil for three minutes, adding half a pint of Hol- 
landaise sauce (No. 130), stew well together for two minutes again, 
but do not let boil, and add one teaspoonful of chopped parsley and 
the juice of half a lemon. Stir slightly, and serve. 



S7 



79- Oysters en Brochette an Petit SalL 

Place twenty-four freshly opened oysters in a stewpan with their 
own juice; season with a very little salt, half a pinch of pepper; par- 
boil for two minutes. Take six skewers and pass them through the 
oysters, separating each one by a small square of cooked bacon — that 
is, alternating each oyster with a piece of the bacon — besprinkle with 
grated, fresh bread-crumbs, and broil for one and a half minutes on 
each side. Serve with half a gill of maitre d'hotel sauce (No. 112) 
poured over, and a bunch of parsley-leaves spread on both sides of the 
dish. 



88 



8o. Oysters a la Mali. 

Chop an onion very fine; place it in a stewpan with one ounce of 
butter, and let it get a good golden color, then add a tablespoonful of 
cooked, finely minced spinach, also a small glassful of white wine. 
Have eighteen medium-sized oysters chopped exceedingly small, and 
seasoned with a pinch of salt, and the same of pepper; place these in 
the stewpan, and let cook for fifteen minutes. Put in one whole egg, 
also a bruised clove of garlic; stir; then take six large, clean oyster- 
shells; fill the bottoms with a bed of three parboiled oysters, cover 
them with the spinach mixture, and besprinkle with fresh bread- 
crumbs. Flatten the tops with the blade of a knife, pour a very little 
clarified butter over, and put them for three minutes in the oven. 
Serve on a folded napkin, garnishing with parsley-leaves. 



89 



8i. Oyster Patties. 

Take twenty-four medium-sized oysters (the least salted oysters 
are better for this purpose), put them in a stewpan with their own 
liquor, and add half a pinch of pepper. Cover, and let cook for two 
minutes; then take half the liquor out, and add to the oysters three- 
quarters of a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 132), and a very little grated 
nutmeg; simmer for two minutes, but do not let boil. Take six hot 
patties, fill them up with four oysters each, pour the sauce over, and 
place the covers on top. Serve on a dish with a folded napkin. 



90 



82. Stewed Oysters a la Baltimore, 

Open neatly thirty-six medium-sized, fresh Rockaway oysters; 
place them in a saucepan without their juice, adding one ounce of 
good butter; cover the pan, put it on the stove, and let cook for two 
minutes, then add a small glassful of good Madeira wine (about a 
cocktail glass) and a very little cayenne pepper. Cook together for 
two minutes longer, then add one gill of Espagnole sauce (No. no) 
and one gill of demi-glace (No. 127). Stir thoroughly until boiling, 
and just before serving squeeze in the juice of a good lemon; add half 
an ounce of good butter, also a teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, 
and serve immediately in a hot tureen. 



91 



83. Soft Clams a la George Merrill. 

Have thirty-six fresh and rather small soft clams, throw away all 
the hard part, keeping nothing but the body. Place them in a stew- 
pan with two ounces of butter, half a pinch of pepper, a finely chopped 
shallot, and half a glassful of Madeira wine. Let cook on the hot 
stove for seven minutes, then add a gill of Espagnole sauce (No. no), 
a pinch of chopped parsley, the juice of a medium-sized, good lemon, 
and half an ounce of good butter, shuffling the whole well for three 
minutes longer without letting it boil, then pour the clams into a hot 
tureen, and serve. 



92 



84. Soft Clams a la Newburg. 

Procure forty-two very fresh, soft clams, so that no sand should 
adhere to them after they are opened; lay them carefully in the palm 
of the left hand, and with the fingers of the right remove the body 
gently, but nothing else, being very careful not to break it, and throw 
away all that remains. When they are all prepared, place them in a 
stewpan with an ounce of good butter, half a pinch of white pepper, a 
wine-glassful of good Madeira wine, and two finely hashed, medium- 
sized truffles. Put on the cover, and let cook gently for eight min- 
utes. Break three egg yolks into a bowl, add a pint of sweet cream; 
beat well for three minutes, then pour it over the clams; turn well the 
handle of the saucepan for two or three minutes, very gently shuffling 
the clams, but it must not boil again or the clams will break, and be 
very careful not to use either a spoon or fork. Pour them into a hot 
tureen, and send to the table at once. 



93 



85. Canape" Lorenzo. 

Cut out from an American bread six slices, the width of the 
bread, one-quarter of an inch in thickness; neatly pare off the crust, 
fry them in a sautoire with half an ounce of butter, so as to have 
them of a light brown color. Boil eighteen hard-shelled crabs in 
salted water for twelve minutes, remove them, and let cool until they 
can be handled with bare hands; then remove the upper shell, and 
with the aid of a pointed knife pick out all the meat; crack both 
claws, pick the meat out also; place the meat on a plate, season with a 
tablespoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of red pepper. Place one 
ounce of butter in a saucepan with half a medium-sized, sound, peeled, 
and very finely chopped-up onion. Cook on a moderate fire for two 
minutes, being very careful not to let get brown. Add two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, stirring constantly for two minutes; then add one 



94 



gill of broth, stir well again for five minutes while slowly cooking. 
Add now the crab-meat, and cook for fifteen minutes more, lightly- 
stirring with a wooden spoon once in a while. Transfer it into a ves- 
sel, and let cool for fifteen minutes. Place a tablespoonful of good 
butter in a sautoire on a hot stove, mix in well together one table- 
spoonful of flour, and cook very slowly for three minutes. Add 
two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and the same quantity of 
grated Swiss cheese; stir all well together. Then place in a vessel 
and let cool. Place a layer of crab forcemeat on each toast a quar- 
ter of an inch thick. Divide the prepared cheese, etc., into six equal 
parts, giving them a ball-shaped form two inches in diameter. Ar- 
range them over the layer of the crab forcemeat right in the centre. 
Place them on a silver dish, and bake in a brisk oven for five minutes. 
Then take out from the oven, and send to the table in the same dish. 



95 



86. Scallops Brest oise. 

Blanch in one ounce of butter for ten minutes, and then drain, one 
pint of scallops; chop up two onions, and put them in a saucepan with 
an ounce of butter; when brown add one tablespoonful of flour, stir- 
ring carefully, and moisten with half a pint of the scallop liquor; if 
none, white broth (No. 126) will answer. Let reduce while stirring, 
then season with a good pinch of salt, and half a pinch of white pep- 
per, also a very little cayenne pepper; add the chopped scallops, four 
egg-yolks, and a bruised clove of garlic, also half a cupful of fresh 
bread-crumbs, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Stir well for 
two minutes, then put it in a dish and lay aside to cool. Fill six 
scallop-shells, or St. Jacques-shells with this, besprinkle the tops with 
fresh bread-crumbs, moisten slightly with clarified butter, and lay 
them on a baking sheet; brown them nicely in the oven for five min- 
utes, and serve on a hot dish with a folded napkin, garnished with 
parsley-leaves. 

96 



Sy. Edible Snails a la B ourguignonne. 

Have some fine Bourgogne snails; disgorge them well with a little 
salt for two or three days, then wash them several times in cold water, 
strain, and place them in a stewpan, covering them with water. Add 
a bouquet (No. 106 ), some cloves and whole pepper tied in a cloth, 
and sufficient salt; cook until the snails fall from their shells, and then 
empty them, clipping off their tails; clean the shells well. Mix to- 
gether some good butter, shallots, parsley, and chervil, the whole 
chopped very fine; put it in a bowl with as much fresh bread-crumbs, 
and a small glassful of white wine; season to taste with salt and pep- 
per, and knead well. Fill each shell with a little of this mixture, re- 
place the snails, and finish filling with more of the kneaded butter, 
spread bread-crumbs over, and lay them on a baking-dish, the opened 
part on the top. Brown in the oven for four minutes, and serve on a 
dish with a folded napkin. 



97 



88. Terrapin a la Baltimore. 

Prepare two medium-sized terrapins as for No. 135, make half a 
pint of mirepoix (No. 128), add to it a tablespoonful of flour, let cook 
for fifteen minutes, then moisten with half a glassful of Madeira wine, 
and a cupful of strong broth. Stir well and constantly, then season 
with half a pinch of salt, and a very little cayenne pepper; reduce to 
half. Cut the terrapin into small pieces, throwing the ends of the 
claws away; put them in a stewpan, straining the sauce over, and fin- 
ish with an ounce of fresh butter, also the juice of a lemon. 



98 



Sg. Terrapin a la Maryland. 

Carefully cut up two terrapins as described in No. 135; place them 
in a saucepan with half a wine-glass of good Madeira wine, half a 
pinch of salt, and a very little cayenne pepper, also an ounce of good 
butter. Mix well a cupful of good, sweet cream with the yolks of 
three boiled eggs, and add it to the terrapin, briskly shuffling con- 
stantly, while thoroughly heating, but without letting it come to a boil. 
Pour into a hot tureen, and serve very hot. 



99 



90. Broiled Frogs. 

Select eighteen good-sized, fine, fresh frogs; pare off the feet 
neatly, then lay the frogs on a dish, and pour two tablespoonfuls of 
sweet oil over, season with a pinch of salt and a pinch of pepper, and 
squeeze in the juice of a fresh lemon. Roll them around several 
times in their seasoning, then place them nicely on the broiler, and 
broil them for four minutes on each side. Take them off, and dress 
them on a hot dish, pouring a gill of maitre d'hotel butter (No. 107) 
over, and send to the table immediately. 



100 



gi. Frogs a la Poulette. 

Procure eighteen pieces of medium-sized, fine, fresh frogs; pare 
off the claws, then place the frogs in a sautoire with two ounces of 
butter, seasoning with a pinch of salt and a pinch of pepper. Add half 
a glassful of white wine, cover, and let cook on a brisk stove for five 
minutes, then add a pint of Hollandaise sauce (No. 130), and two 
teaspoonfuls of finely chopped parsley, and a little lemon juice; mix 
well for two minutes, but do not let it boil again; then serve the frogs 
on a very hot dish. 

1 



101 



92. Fried Frogs. 

Select eighteen fine, fresh, medium-sized frogs; trim off the claws 
neatly, and put the frogs in a bowl. Marinade them with a table- 
spoonful of vinegar, the same of sweet oil, a pinch of salt and a pinch 
of pepper; mix well together in the bowl, then immerse them in frying 
batter. Plunge the frogs into very hot fat, one by one, and let fry 
for five minutes; then drain, and dress them on a hot dish with a folded 
napkin, decorating with a little parsley-greens. Serve with any de- 
sired sauce. 



102 



93- Broiled Shads Roe, with Bacon. 

Procure six pieces of fresh shad's roe, wipe them thoroughly with 
a towel, then lay them on a dish, and season with a good pinch of salt 
and two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil. Roll them gently to avoid break- 
ing, then arrange them on a broiler, and broil them for six minutes on 
each side. Take them off the fire, lay them on a hot dish, and pour 
a gill of maitre d'hotel butter (No. 107) over; decorate with six slices 
of broiled bacon, and six quarters of lemon; then send to the table. 



103 



94- Broiled Sardines on Toast. 

Select twelve good-sized, fine, and firm sardines; arrange them in 
a double broiler, and broil for two minutes on each side on a very 
brisk fire. Place six fresh, dry toasts on a hot dish, lay the sardines 
over, being careful not to break them, pour half a gill of maitre 
d'hotel butter (No. 107) over, decorate with six quarters of lemon, 
and serve. 



104 



95- Salt Mackerel a la Whitmore. 

Have two fine, medium- sized, sound salt mackerel. Let them 
soak in plenty of cold water for at least eighteen hours, changing the 
water two or three times. Take out and thoroughly dry; remove the 
back bone of each. Arrange them on a well-oiled fish-broiler, split 
part upward, and then with a hair brush gently oil the surface. Place 
them on a very brisk fire for five minutes, on the split side, and two 
minutes on the skin side. Remove them from the broiler, dress on a 
hot dish, pour half a gill of drawn butter over, decorate the dish with 
one lemon cut in quarters and some parsley greens, and send to the 
table. 



105 



96. Fried White- Bait. 

Have one pound of fine fresh white-bait, thoroughly wash them in 
cold water; the water in which they are washed must be very cold, a 
piece of ice can even be added to it, so as to keep them firm; thor- 
oughly drain, then inclose them in a dry towel and lightly shake them 
so as to thoroughly dry. Dip them in cold milk. Mix together two 
cups of cracker-dust with one cupful of flour, roll the white-bait into 
this, and then fry them in a very hot fat for one minute only. Re- 
move, and thoroughly drain, sprinkle over a tablespoonful of salt 
equally divided. Dress on a hot dish with a folded napkin, and im- 
mediately send to the table. 

White-bait should never be prepared in advance, except one min- 
ute before the time of serving, as they are very easily spoiled. 



106 



97- Oysters Scalloped a la Baltimore. 

Have three dozen good-sized, fine, freshly opened box oysters, put 
them in a bowl. Season with a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, and 
entirely suppress their liquor, seeing that they are almost dry. Have 
six small silver scallop-shells, lightly butter the interior of each, then 
evenly spread a tablespoonful of fresh bread-crumbs in each shell, 
gently lay six oysters in each shell over the crumbs, and then sprinkle 
a tablespoonful of bread-crumbs on the oysters in each shell; place 
half a teaspoonful of good butter in the centre of each shell; place 
them in a very hot oven to bake for fully fifteen minutes, or until they 
have obtained a good golden color. Remove them from the oven. 
Dress the six shells on a hot serving-dish with a folded napkin, and 
send to the table. 



107 



98. Terrapin a la Robert Bonner. 

Have two fine diamond-back terrapin prepared the same as in No. 
135. Suppress the claws as well as the galls, then cut them into very- 
small even pieces. 

Have a well-cleaned chafing-dish, light the jets of the alcohol 
lamp, pour into the water pan sufficient boiling water to fill it up to 
half its height. Arrange the dish over the water pan, place in the 
dish half an ounce of very good fresh butter, and then put in the 
terrapin also. Season with a tablespoonful of salt and half a salt- 
spoonful of cayenne pepper, moisten with a gill of very good Madeira 
wine (the older the better), tightly place the cover of the chafing-dish 



108 



on, and then reduce the wine to one-half, which will take fifteen min- 
utes without disturbing it. 

Beat up, in a bowl, the yolks of four fresh eggs with half a pint of 
sweet cream. Remove the cover from the chafing-dish, then pour in 
the beaten-up eggs and cream, gently shuffle the dish, so as to mix all 
well together, arrange the cover on again, and let gently simmer for 
twenty-five minutes longer, gently shuffling the dish containing the 
terrapin every five minutes. Extinguish the light of the lamp and 
send to the table. 



109 



99- Terrapin in Chafing- Dish a la Maryland. 

Prepare the terrapin exactly in the same manner as No. 98, only 
substituting four hard-boiled egg-yolks for the four fresh ones, and 
serving the same. 



1 



no 



ioo. Oysters a la L. Pomeroy. 

Have two dozen of rather good-sized, fine, freshly opened oysters, 
suppress their liquor, then place them in a saucepan on the fire with 
half an ounce of very good butter; gently boil them for three minutes, 
then add half a wineglassful of good old Madeira wine, let the wine 
reduce one-half. Break into a bowl four fresh egg-yolks, with half a 
pint of sweet cream, then with the wire whip thoroughly beat them up, 
and then add it to the oysters, continually and briskly stirring while 
adding it; let all cook for three minutes, briskly stirring meanwhile. 
Remove from off the fire, pour into a hot deep dish or tureen and 
send to the table. 



in 



APPENDIX. 



101. Oyster Sauce. — Open eighteen medium-sized, fine Shrewsbury oysters, 
and put them in a saucepan with one ounce of good butter, placing the pan on the 
stove. Cook for four minutes; remove half the liquid from the pan and add a pint 
of hot Allemande sauce (No. 114). Then with the spatula mix lightly together with- 
out allowing it to boil, and serve. 

102. Sauce Colbert.— Put in a saucepan half a pint of very thick Madeira sauce 
(No. 127); add to it very gradually one ounce of good, fresh butter, also two table- 
spoonfuls of meat-glaze (No. 103). Mix well together without boiling; then squeeze 
in the juice of half a sound lemon, and add one teaspoonful of chopped parsley when 
serving. 

103. Meat Glaze— Glace de Yiande.— As this meat glaze, when properly 
made, will keep in perfect condition for any length of time, I would advise that half 
a pint be made at a time, in the following manner. Place in a large saucepan ten 
quarts of white broth (No. 126), or nine quarts of consomme, and reduce it on a mod- 
erate fire for fully four hours, at which time it should be reduced to half a pint. Trans- 
fer it in a stone jar or bowl ; put a cover on, and keep in a cool place for general use. 

104. Sauce a la Geuoise. — Strain about two tablespoonfuls of cooked mirepoix 
(No. 128), and moisten it with half a glassful of red wine; reduce to half on the hot 
stove, then add half a pint of Espagnole (No. no), two tablespoonfuls of white broth 

113 



(No. 126), and a scant tablespoonful of pepper. Cook for ten minutes, then strain 
through a sieve; put in half an ounce of good butter and a teaspoonful of anchovy 
sauce (No. 105), and serve. 

105. Anchovy Sauce. — To three-quarters of a pint of drawn-butter add one 
tablespoonful of anchovy essence; beat well together and serve. 

106. A Bouquet. — how to prepare.— Take four branches of well-washed 
parsley-stalks — if the branches be small, take six— one branch of soup-celery, well 
washed; one blade of bay-leaf, one sprig of thyme, and two cloves, placed in the 
centre of the parsley, so as to prevent cloves, thyme, and bay-leaf from dropping out 
of the bouquet while cooking; fold it well, and tightly tie with a string, and use when 
required in various recipes. 

107. Butter, maitre d 'hotel. — Put one ounce of good butter in a bowl with a 
teaspoonful of very finely chopped parsley, adding the juice of half a sound lemon. 
Mingle well with a very little nutmeg, and keep it in a cool place to use when needed. 

108. Shrimp Sauce. — Place half an ounce of shrimp butter (No. 129) in half a 
pint of Hollandaise sauce (No. 130); stir well on the fire for five minutes, and when 
ready to serve add twelve picked shrimp tails and the juice of half a lemon. Heat 
without boiling, and serve. 

109. Potatoes a PAnglaise. — Wash well six good-sized potatoes; boil them in 
salted water for forty-five minutes; peel, and cut them each into quarters. Melt an 
ounce of butter in a saucepan; add the sliced potatoes, half a pinch of salt, and the 
third of a pinch of pepper. Cook them on a very slow fire for five minutes, tossing 
them well, and serve on a very hot dish, sprinkling a little chopped parsley over them. 

110. Sauce Espag-nole— for one gallon.— Mix one pint of raw, strong mirepoix 
(No. 128) with two ounces of good fat (chicken's fat is preferable). Mix with the 



114 



compound four ounces of flour, and moisten with one gallon of white broth (No. 
126). Stir well, and then add, if handy, some baked veal and ham bones. Boil for 
three hours, and then remove the fat very carefully ; rub the sauce through a very 
fine sieve, and keep it for many purposes in cooking. 

111. Forcemeat Quenelles of Fish. — Select one pound of firm fish (bass is 
preferable), remove the skin and take out the bones. Pound it well in a mortar, add- 
ing the whites of three eggs a little at a time. When well pounded add half a pint 
of cream, half a tablespoonful of salt, and a little white pepper and nutmeg. Mix 
well, and use when needed. 

112. Sauce maitre d'hotel, liee.— Add to half a pint of warm Hollandaise 
sauce (No. 130), a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half an ounce of butter, a scant 
teaspoonful of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of nutmeg ; then serve. 

113. Cooked Fine Herbs.— Chop up one sound onion and two well-peeled shal- 
lots; brown them in a saucepan with one ounce of butter, for five minutes, then add 
double the quantity of finely minced mushrooms and a grain of garlic; season with 
half a tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper, and finish with a tablespoonful 
of chopped parsley. Cook ten minutes longer, and then let it cool. 

114. Sauce Allemande. — Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan on a slow 
fire, with three tablespoonfuls of flour to thicken. Stir well, not letting it brown; 
then moisten with one pint of white broth (No. 126), beating constantly, and cook 
for ten minutes. Dilute three egg-yolks separately in a bowl ; pour the sauce over 
the eggs, a very little at a time; strain through a Chinese strainer, and finish with 
half an ounce of good butter and the juice of half a lemon, taking care that it does 
not boil a second time. 



H5 



115. Potato Croquettes and (Quenelles.— Pee], wash, and drain nicely eight 
medium-sized mealy potatoes; cut them in quarters, put them in a saucepan, cover 
them with water, add a pinch of salt, cook for thirty minutes, and drain. Lay them 
in a mortar with an ounce of fresh butter, pound them well, and add three raw egg- 
yolks. Season with half a pinch each of salt and pepper and the third of a pinch of 
nutmeg; mix well, and then divide into twelve parts, shaping each one like a cork, 
or any other shape desired. Dip them separately into beaten egg, and roll them in 
fresh bread-crumbs; fry a golden color for three minutes, and serve on a dish with a 
folded napkin. 

116. Croutons for Soups. — Cut some dice-shaped pieces of bread, and fry them 
in a pan with clarified butter; when a rich golden color, drain. 

117. White-Roux. — Put in a saucepan two ounces of butter, and place it on the 
corner of the hot range, add to it two tablespoonfuls of flour; keep stirring constantly 
for seven minutes. Then let it cool, and when cold, use in various sauces, as directed. 

118. Cirisson de Poisson— Fish Broth. For One Uallon.— Fill a saucepan 
with three quarts of water, a good handful of salt, half a glassful of vinegar, one car- 
rot, and one onion (both sliced), half a handful of whole peppers, one bunch of pars- 
ley-roots, three sprigs of thyme, and three bay-leaves. Cook on a moderate fire for 
fifteen minutes. Cool, and use when needed for various methods of cooking fish. 

119. Sauce Yeloute. — Melt one ounce of good butter in a. saucepan, adding two 
tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir well, not letting it get brown. Moisten with a pint 
and a half of good veal and chicken stock, the stronger the better. Throw in a gar- 
nished bouquet (No. 106), half a cupful of mushroom liquor, if at hand, six whole pep- 
pers, half a pinch of salt, and a very little nutmeg. Boil for twenty minutes, stirring 

u6 



continuously with a wooden spatula; then remove to the side of the fire, skim thor- 
oughly, and let it continue simmering slowly for one hour. Then rub through a fine 
sieve. This sauce will make the foundation for any kind of good white stock. 

1 20. Sauce Chambord.— Place one truffle and three mushrooms, sliced very thin, 
in half a pint of Espagnole sauce (No. no), adding three tablespoonfuls of bouillon, 
six fish quenelles (No. in), and twelve medium-sized, whole, blanched oysters. 
Cook slowly for five minutes, and serve. 

121. Potatoes, Parisienne. — Take six good-sized, well-cleansed potatoes; with 
a round vegetable-spoon cut out the Parisian potatoes; then put them in fresh water; 
wash well, and drain. Melt an ounce of butter in a sautoire, throw in the potatoes, 
and season with half a pinch of salt. Place the sautoire in the oven ; cook for twenty 
minutes, and serve on a hot dish with a folded napkin. 

122. Sauce Italienne.— Brown two medium-sized, fine, peeled, and chopped- 
up shallots in a saucepan with a quarter of an ounce of butter, adding half an ounce 
cf cooked, lean ham cut into small dice shape, four minced mushrooms, one finely 
minced truffle, and a glassful of Madeira wine. Let all cook together for five miuutes; 
then add half a pint of Espagnole sauce (No. no); let it then come to a boil, and 
serve very hot. 

123. Butter a la Ravig'ote.— Pound together in a mortar one sprig of parsley, 
the same of tarragon, very little chives, the same of chervil, and one small, peeled 
shallot. Add half a teaspoonful of anchovy essence, one ounce of good butter, and 
half a drop of spinach-green. Rub through a fine sieve, and keep it in a cool place 
for general use. 

ri7 



124:. Lobster Forcemeat. — Fry an onion, chopped very fine, in one ounce of 
good butter until it is of a golden brown color, adding one tablespoonful of flour to 
make a roux (No. 117). Moisten with half a pint of white stock (No. 131), stirring 
well and constantly until the sauce hardens. Season with half a tablespoonful of salt, 
a scant teaspoonful of white pepper, the same of cayenne, one tablespoonful of Eng- 
lish sauce, half a teaspoonful of mustard, a crushed grain of garlic, and one teaspoon- 
ful of chopped parsley. Stir well, adding two pounds of cooked lobster, cut up very 
fine, with twelve mushrooms, also chopped. Cook for thirty minutes in a saucepan, 
then put it back off the hot fire; add four egg-yolks, stir again for a moment, cool, 
and serve when required. 

125. Chicken Forcemeat.— Cut in large pieces two raw chicken breasts, pound 
them in a mortar, adding the same quantity of bread soaked in milk, a teaspoonful 
of fresh butter and four egg-yolks, seasoning with half a tablespoonful of salt, a scant 
teaspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful of nutmeg. Mix all together; strain, and 
put it in a bowl with three tablespoonfuls of veloute sauce (No. 119). 

126. White Broth. — Place in a large stock-urn on a moderate fire a good heavy 
knuckle of a fine white veal with all the debris, or scraps of meat, including bones, 
remaining in the kitchen (but not of game); cover fully with cold water, adding a 
handful of salt; and as it comes to a boil, be very careful to skim all the scum off — no 
particle of scum should be left on — and then put in two large, sound, well-scraped 
carrots (whole), one whole, cleaned, sound turnip, one whole, peeled, large, sound 
onion, one well-cleaned parsley root, three thoroughly washed leeks, and a tew leaves 
of cleaned celery. Boil very slowly for six hours on the corner of the range; keenly 
skim the grease off ; then strain well through a wet cloth into a china bowl or a stone 
jar, and put it away in a cool place for general use. 

118 



127. Sauce Demi-Glace, or Madeira.— Add one small glassful of mushroom 
liquor to one pint of good Espagnole sauce (No. no); also a small glassful of Madeira 
wine, a bouquet (No. 106), and a scant teaspoonful of pepper. Remove the fat care- 
fully and cook for thirty minutes, leaving the sauce in a rather liquid state; then 
strain and use when needed. This takes the place of all Madeira sauces. 

128. Mirepoix.— Stew in a saucepan two ounces of fat, two carrots, one onion, 
one sprig of thyme, one bay -leaf, six whole peppers, three cloves, and, if handy, a 
ham bone cut into pieces. Add two sprigs of celery and half a bunch of parsley 
roots; cook for fifteen minutes, and use when directed in other recipes. Scraps of 
baked veal may also be added, if at hand. 

129. Shrimp Butter.— Pick the meat from the tails of twelve boiled shrimps; 
dry the shells, and pound them all together in a mortar, adding one ounce of good 
butter; then place it in a saucepan on a moderate fire, stirring, until it clarifies, for 
about five minutes; then strain through a napkin, letting it drop into cold water. 
When it is congealed, take it out, and place it in a warm basin, stirring until it as- 
sumes the desired color. 

130. Sauce Hollandaise.— Place one sound, sliced onion, six whole peppers 
and a bay-leaf in a saucepan with two ounces of good butter on the hot stove; stir 
in two tablespoonfuls of flour to thicken, then moisten with a pint and a half of either 
chicken or white broth (No. 126); mix well with a whisk or wooden spatula, being 
careful to remove any accumulated fat. Add half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg 
and half a tablespoonful of salt, and cook for twenty-five minutes. Beat the yolks of 
three eggs separately with the juice of half a medium-sized sound lemon. Pour them 
gradually into the sauce, being careful not to boil it -again after they have been add- 
no 



ed. Rub through a hair sieve into a serving bowl, and finish with half an ounce of 
good butter, mixing it well, and serve. 

131. White Stock — for one gallon. — Reduce in a saucepan on the hot range, 
one ounce of very good, finely shred, salt pork, previously well washed, and the 
same of beef suet. Add one carrot, one onion, a bouquet of aromatic herbs (No. 106), 
twelve whole peppers, and four cloves. Brown these well on a moderate fire for four 
minutes. Add four ounces of flour; stir well, and moisten with a glassful of white 
wine and three quarts of white broth (No. 126), Add one tablespoonful of salt, and 
stir until it comes to a boil; then let it cook thoroughly for one hour; strain through a 
fine sieve. This stock should be used without any further thickening. 

132. Bechamel Sauce. — Place in a saucepan two ounces of butter, add two 
tablespoon fuls of flour, and stir constantly for five minutes. Moisten with a pint and 
a half of boiling milk, being careful to pour it in gradually; then beat it well with a 
whisk. Add half a teaspoonful of Hollandaise sauce (No. 130), and one tablespoon- 
ful of anchovy essence; beat well together and serve. 

133. Bearnaise Sauce. — Chop very fine two medium-sized, sound, well-peeled 
shallots; place them in a small saucepan on the hot range, with two tablespoonfuls 
of either tarragon or chervil vinegar, and five whole crushed peppers. Reduce until 
nearly dry, then put away to cool. Mingle with it six fresh raw egg-yolks, sharply 
stirring meanwhile, then gradually add one and a half ounce of good fresh butter, 
seasoning with half a tablespoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, and 
twelve finely chopped sound tarragon leaves. Have a much wider pan on the fire 
with boiling water, place the small one containing the ingredients into the other, and 
see that the boiling water reaches up to half its height; thoroughly heat up, beating 

120 



briskly with the whisk ; when the sauce is firm add one teaspoonful of melted meat- 
glaze (No. 103), beat lightly for two seconds longer, then strain through an ordinary, 
clean kitchen towel, neatly arrange the sauce on a hot dish to be sent to the table, 
and dress over it any article required to be served. 

134 Cream Sauce.— Take half a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 132); add half an 
ounce of butter, and beat them together carefully, adding half a cupful of sweet 
cream. Then serve. 

135. Terrapin— how to prepare it.— Take live terrapin, and blanch them in 
boiling water for two minutes. Remove the skin from the feet, and put them back 
to cook with some salt in the saucepan until they feel soft to the touch; then put 
them aside to cool. Remove the carcass, cut it in medium-sized pieces, removing 
the entrails, being careful not to break the gall-bag. Put the pieces in a smaller 
saucepan, adding two teaspoonfuls of pepper, a little nutmeg, according to the 
quantity, a tablespoonful of salt, and a glassful of Madeira wine. Cook for five 
minutes, and put it away in the ice-box for further use. 



121 



THERE are over fifteen hundred original recipes, besides 
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the following subjects: "Our Markets, and the Varieties of 
Food to be Found in Them in the Different Months of the 
Year;" "How to Set a Table;" "How to Serve Meals;" 
" How to Carve ; " and " Table Etiquette." 

Your bookseller will supply it to you for $2.50. If your 
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BOOKS BY A. FILIPPINI 



"ONE HUNDRED RECIPES FOR COOK- 
ING AND SERVING FISH." This little book 

contains the best recipes that Mr. Filippini has used during his twenty- 
five years' experience with the celebrated house of Delmonico's. It 
includes recipes for preparing, cooking, and serving Salmon, Trout, 
Halibut, Soles, Skates, Shad, Mackerel, Eels, Bluefish, Sheepshead, 
Bass, Cod, Codfish-tongues, Smelts, Lobsters, Crabs, Oysters, Clams, 
Terrapin, Frogs, Whitebait, Sardines; in fact, all varieties of fish. 
The book is very tastefully gotten up, one recipe being printed on 
each page. The paper is supercalendered, and the book is bound in 
turned cloth, with an appropriate design in colors, with gold title. 
The price is fifty cents. 



"ONE HUNDRED WAYS OF COOKING 
EGGS.'' Mr. Filippini is probably the only one who 

can cook eggs in a hundred different ways, and this book will be 
worth ten times its price to any purchaser. Unlike most of his guild, 
who jealously guard every secret of their craft, Mr. Filippini has at 
last been persuaded to admit the world into the inner sanctuary of 
his art, to describe to a hand's turn, and without reserve, exactly 
how those marvelous triumphs of his art have been achieved. Uni- 
form in every respect with " One Hundred Recipes for Fish." 
Fifty cents. 

"THE TABLE." "How to Buy Food, How to 
Cook It, and How to Serve It." 8vo, 505 pages. Bound in oil-cloth, 
$2.50; full seal Russia (Presentation Edition), $4.50. (See adver- 
tisement on next page.) 



THE TABLE: 

fjoto to Buri Joob, QotD to (Hook St, cmlr fjotu to Sm)e 3t. 

By ALESSANDRO FILIPPINI, of Delmonico's. 

For Twenty-five years Mr. Filippini has been with Delmonico, and until recently was 
Manager of the branch house at 341 Broadway. 

365 BREAKFASTS. 365 LUNCHEONS. 

365 DINNERS. 

134 Recipes for SOUPS ; Nearly 100 SAUCES ; 102 Ways of Cooking EGGS ; 
40 SALADS; Over 300 DESSERTS, Etc., Etc. 

This work is endorsed by the Dehnonicos. Mr. Filippini' s experience in Cul- 
inary Art is probably greater than any living man's. The results of a lifetime 
of careful study are here embodied. 

It is infinitely greater than a mere cook-book, for while it gives many more 
recipes than any other work of the kind ever published, at the same time it con- 
tains invaluable advice as to how to buy what is best and most economical, and 
how to dress a table and serve meals. In large families the price of the work 
can be saved daily by following Mr. Filippini' s suggestions. One of the excep- 
tional features of this book is the fact that it is adapted to the humblest as well 
as to the grandest style of living. No matter where placed, it will pay for 
itself many times over. 

DTPTPTTti. J Presentation Edition, in Full Seal Russia, Marbled Edges, $4.50 
i'Ki^a.^ Kitchen Edition, in Oil-Cloth, .... 3.50 

CHARLES L WEBSTER & CO., Publishers, 67 Fifth Avenue, New York City. 



